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Keep away from extreme temperatures or humidity. Like you, your finish prefers a moderate climate! Avoid aerosol spray polishes as they may contain solvents or silicone that could dissolve the wax. For best results the lacquer should be applied in very thin coats. Results may also vary depending on previous treatment of the surface.
This can be especially noticeable on whites, manifesting as a yellow stain. If a stain appears, apply a stain blocker directly over the entire surface before painting and lacquering again. This will block tannins that can bleed through the paint. On rare occasions, a stain may bleed through your first coat of paint — this is often from a previous oil-based finish and is most likely to happen on old pieces from the s and s. If you see a stain bleeding through the paint, apply a coat of stain blocker or knotting solution directly over the paint you have already applied.
Treat the whole affected surface to avoid any patchiness in the final finish. One or two coats of blocker applied evenly with a cloth pad will block the stain. It dries in minutes, and then you can get on with your painting. Subsequent coats will be absorbed by the paint underneath at a different rate, leading to a subtle shade difference in the finish. There is no need to repaint the entire room or the whole piece of furniture! If it looks fine, you can seal and leave.
If not, apply as above. Find out roughly what ratio you need by experimenting — you could use your fingers to dab and mix colours, or a teaspoon to make small amounts.
For larger amounts you could use a cup or even a tin as a measure. Start with a dollop of your chosen colour, slowly adding the Old White or Pure. A dollop of Provence and two dollops of Old White gives you a ratio of 1 to 2, making a soft pale turquoise. It gives a wonderful texture and matt look. You can then wax the wall or leave it — bedroom walls look great with a soft, matte unwaxed finish.
For kitchens, bathrooms and walls that require a tougher, scrubbable finish, we recommend Wall Paint by Annie Sloan. Always test the paint and lacquer on a few areas of the floor before you start, to check whether any stains will bleed through.
You can paint straight onto all kinds of hardware, including metal work. It can even cover and slow down rust. Any rusting areas should be sanded and treated with a rust inhibitor before painting. Ensure they are spotlessly clean without using harsh chemicals before painting. Any residue oils left from kitchen-use will affect the finish. Remember to always test your cabinets first with both paint and lacquer.
It can also be used on radiators! Make sure the radiator or fireplace is cold before you start painting in order to prevent the paint from cracking.
Remember to leave the wax to cure for 48 hours before exposing it to heat. Depending on the look you want and the site-specific conditions you may find it needs a fresh coat periodically. When using on glazed or shiny tiles, allow for the full curing period 21 days for wax, 14 days for Lacquer and take care not to scratch or chip the finish during this time.
We are no longer regularly manufacturing these three shades: but we still have the colour recipes for them and they may make reappearances due to popular demand. Contact your local Stockists for advice, guidance, and paint mixing demonstrations, or email us directly on enquiries anniesloan. When it comes to painting upholstery, small items which are firmly upholstered such as a dining chair seat and made from natural fabric such as cotton or linen give the best results.
Fabric that is painted in this way does not require to be waxed afterwards. There are other ways to paint upholstery, but the success of painting any upholstered piece does depend on factors such as the condition, colour and composition of the fabric, how firmly it is upholstered, and the colour you are using reds are less colourfast.
In most cases, you will see better results where you are going from light to dark than if you are trying to go from dark to light. If confident, you can experiment with different techniques — applying the paint more thickly will change the composition of the fabric, making it stiffer.
This can then be waxed and buffed to create a leather effect. Annie and famed New Zealand YouTube star and television personality Astar created a video on just this, which you can see here. As the leather creases and cracks with age, so will the paint, so bear this in mind on well-worn or cushioned items.
For any project, we would recommend testing in a small area first before you commit to painting the whole piece. There is no need to dilute the paint. To keep the image from bleeding around the edges try not to overload your roller with paint. Allow the fabric to dry naturally, then heat seal it by tumble drying or pressing with a hot iron. To see Annie stencilling fabric, click here.
You can control the intensity of the colour by adding more or less water. Linen, cotton, cotton voile and synthetic curtains all work well with this technique. You can also use patterned cottons or linens. We have found that the deeper pigmented colours work best, such as Aubusson Blue, Scandinavian Pink, Antibes and Florence. Bear this in mind when dying. Wall Paint contains ingredients that make it very durable.
Coverage will vary depending on the surface and application. Apply a thin layer of the clear wax in a circular motion, pressing it into the paint. I think it's easiest to work in small sections of your furniture piece.
After you've waxed a section, immediately wipe off the excess wax with a clean cloth, then move onto the next section, and wax then wipe. If your piece feels tacky, keep wiping. If I have a piece that is going to get a lot of "traffic" then I like to give it at least two coats of wax. Some people like to wait 24 hours in between coats, but Annie says you can do multiple coats one right after another so that is what I usually do.
Dark wax is great for adding an aged look to your furniture piece. It's perfect to use in the cracks and crevices to add dimension. I prefer to add my dark wax with a cloth, simply because I don't need the coverage from the dark wax that I need from the clear wax.
Dark wax is more for details, whereas clear wax is more for sealing. When it comes to dark wax, always apply clear wax first. If you apply the dark wax first you will have a really hard time controlling how dark it goes on. I always use dark wax immediately after clear wax because it makes it easier to control. To make it even easier to control, you can mix a little bit of clear wax in with your dark wax. This is a good thing to do if you're new to dark wax and are still learning how to apply it to get the look you're desiring.
Also, keep in mind that clear wax can erase dark wax if you've added too much. As I mentioned before, brushes are super important. This goes for wax as well. You can apply the wax with cheesecloth or a rag, but you can control the wax so much better with a wax brush, and you will also, guaranteed, use less wax if you have a brush. The Annie Sloan wax brush is the one I use.
You can find it here. Just a couple of tips, first of all, when you have a new wax brush soak it in water over night to remove any loose bristles, then hang it brush side down to dry. Secondly, I mentioned above that I prefer to use a cloth to apply dark wax, but if you're going to use a brush for your dark wax, don't use the same brush for dark wax that you use for clear wax. It's nearly impossible to get ALL of the dark wax out of a brush, and you don't want color transfer on the next piece you refinish that you only wanted to be clear waxed.
To clean your wax brushes simply use a mild soap and warm water. If you have waxed your furniture piece but prefer a higher gloss finish, you can use a clean cloth to buff the piece by wiping back and forth or in a circular motion across the piece until it's shiny. Old, white t-shirts work great for this. I would say that you can paint pretty much anything with chalk paint.
Wood, metal, glass, plastic, even fabric! My latest project was actually the first time I've painted metal, I went right over the hardware with the paint, and it adhered beautifully.
The sky is really the limit! You can simply add a new coat of chalk paint directly over the existing wax. How easy is that!? Now for a few photos of my latest chalk painting project.
Here's the before. The piece looks dark, heavy, and actually a little grungy. That shiny black finish showed everything!
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